The number and popularity of thematic walking paths in our country is increasing day by day. After the Lycian Way and the Carian Way, Phrygia in the region known as Phrygian Way A few years ago, the markings were finished and opened to tourism. I also made four visits to Phrygia and the Phrygian Way at different times. I had the chance to both walk on the walking routes and see some of the Phrygian artifacts. I have prepared a detailed article as a Phrygian travel guide, which includes what I learned about Phrygia and Phrygians, answers to questions such as how to get to the Phrygian Valleys, what to eat and where to stay, and a list of places to visit in Phrygia, enjoyable reading.

Phrygian Way Walk in Phrygian Geography
Phrygian Way Walk in Phrygian Geography

About Phrygians and Phrygia

Phrygia; Today, it is a great civilization that has survived between the 11th and 7th centuries BC, geographically between Afyonkarahisar, Eskişehir, Kütahya and Ankara. The Phrygians were a freedom-loving society ahead of their time in arts and crafts. Their capital was Gordion (Yassıhöyük, Polatlı, Ankara) region in 11 BC. They are thought to have come in the XNUMXth century. Since they left very few written sources and their writings and languages ​​are still not deciphered, we learn more about the Phrygians from the ancient Greek writers of literature such as Herodotus and Homer.

Phrygia
Phrygia

Phrygians were the first to use musical instruments such as the flute (pan flute). Today, many works in western music are created with the "Phrygian Scale".

The “Phrygian Cap” has inspired many freedom-seeking societies, from the red hat we see on Papa Smurf's head, to the hats worn by the slaves who won their freedom in Rome, and to the hats worn by the revolutionaries during the French Revolution.

Phrygian Legends

Many legends from the Phrygian Civilization are still being told today. best known King of Phrygia The stories of Midas are the most well-known among them. Is there anyone among us who hasn't heard the story "Midas has donkey ears" or "Midas got what he got into gold"?

The Written Rock Monument in the city of Midas, which is the most mentioned in the Phrygian legends.
The Written Rock Monument in the city of Midas, which is the most mentioned in the Phrygian legends.

Midas Ears Donkey Ears

King Midas was requested and approved as a judge for a music competition to be held between the Greek God Apollon and the Country God Pan. Midas uses the game for Pan, while the other judge uses the game for Apollo. Apollo turned Midas' ears into donkey ears, saying that only donkey ears would suit a person who was angry with Midas and did not understand good music. The legend is that Midas is now between these ears and his people. Midas tries to hide it, keeps silent and does not tell anyone, but when he goes to the barber one day, the barber notices Midas' ears, but does not tell anyone. After a while, he can't stand it and thinks that he can't keep it inside anymore and that he has to tell it, he goes to a well and screams...

Spike fields in the Phrygian Valley
Corn fields in the Phrygian Valley

According to the legend, the well, the waters, the waters, the reeds, in this way, the secret of Midas is heard by everyone. The people start to make fun of Midas and insult him, they imitate him with shadow plays. King Midas can't stand them any longer, he thinks to have his ears cut off and does it, but after a while, he realizes that his ears look worse than before, in the form of ivy, and he begs the god to ask him for help. God forgives Midas, but silently kills him and buries him in the tomb.

If you listen carefully today, as the ears sway with the wind in Phrygia, "Midas's ears are donkey's ears," he murmurs…

Midas Who Takes Gold

Satiros, the comrade of Dionysos, the god of wine, falls asleep in the rose gardens of Midas while visiting Phrygia one day, and Midas finds him and hosts him for 10 days. ” wishes this wish come true. Midas is happy at first, but the fact that everything to eat and drink is gold made it difficult for him, and then he says he gave up and asks for help. Dionysus tells him to bathe in the Paktalos river (today Gediz river) and the King does this and returns to his old self. It is said that the wealth of the Lycians came from the gold that Midas left in the Paktalos river.

Phrygian Trail Walking Routes

From the fairy chimneys formed by the rocky structure of the Turkmen Mountain, to the inscriptions carved into the rocks, rock tombs, cupolas and churches, to ancient roads that have been used for thousands of years, there are many values ​​​​to see in this vast geography. The Phrygian Way, which is Turkey's 506rd longest themed walking route with 67 kilometers of marked and 3 trails, is also a paradise for nature and history lovers. The walking paths centered on Midas, the religious capital of Phrygia, consist of three main routes. On these routes, Yazılıkaya-Midas Monument in Yazılıkaya Valley, Aslantaş, Yılantaş and Maltaş in Köhnüş Valley, Avdalaz Castle, campus and churches in Avdalaz Valley are among the must-see places.

Phrygian Trail Walking Routes
Phrygian Trail Walking Routes

The map was taken from Frigvadisi.gov.tr.

Phrygian Trail Walking Routes

Unlike other thematic walking paths in our country, the Phrygian Way does not proceed on a single line, but on 3 main lines centered on Midas (Yazılıkaya).

  • Phrygian Way Route 1 – Afyonkarahisar (Seydiler-Yazilikaya): Afyonkarahisar route has a total of 140 km walking track.
  • Phrygian Way Route 2 – Kütahya (Yenice – Yazılıkaya): The Kütahya route has a 147 km walking track.
  • Phrygian Way Route 3 – Eskişehir – Ankara (Yazilikaya-Gordion): Eskişehir route has 219 km walking track.

Phrygian Attractions

In addition to the historical monuments to be seen in Phrygia, there are many natural beauties, rock formations and valleys. I have to admit that I encountered natural beauty far beyond my expectations from the region located in the Central Anatolian Region. Our walks took place on not difficult tracks and in pine forests.

Places to Visit on the Afyonkarahisar Route

Avdalaz Castle
Avdalaz Castle

We can list the main places to visit on the Phrygian Way Afyon route;

  • in Ayazini Village; Ayazini Metropolis, Avdalaz Castle, Avdalaz campus, churches and cemeteries
  • In the Göynüş Valley; Aslantaş, Yılantaş and Maltaş
  • Around İhsaniye Döğer Village; Emre Lake, Aslankaya and Kapikaya

Also, fairy chimneys and Ancient Road are must-see places on the Afyon route.

Places to Visit on the Kütahya Route

The part I did not go to in the Phrygian Valleys was the Kütahya side. Therefore, my recommendations here are based solely on what I have read.

  • There are Phrygian, Roman and Byzantine settlements in Sabuncupınar and its surroundings.
  • Ovacik Village, Incile settlement and necropolis (cemetery) are worth seeing.

Places to Visit on Eskişehir Route

Written Rock Valley
Written Rock Valley

Yazilikaya is the most important place of Eskişehir route. With the Midas Monument and the temples on the hill where the city of Midas is located, it will offer you magnificent views when you go near sunset. Be sure to see the unfinished monument, the cisterns that have now turned into a cloister, and the altars in the upper city. One of the must-see places in this region is the Gerdekkaya mausoleum. This triangular-roofed building was built in BC. It is thought to have been built between the 3rd and 1st centuries AD. If we list the places to see on the Eskişehir route;

  • Yazilikaya Midas Monument
  • Pyramid Rock
  • Hittite Military Relief
  • Inscribed Altar
  • Midas Castle / Upper City
  • Unfinished Monument
  • Water Cisterns
  • Kırkgöz Cliffs
  • Doganli Castle
  • Gerdekkaya
  • Little Yazilikaya
  • Kümbet Village Phrygian Temples
  • Kümbet Valley
  • Lion Temple
  • Himmet Baba Cupola
  • Asarkale

Eskişehir Phrygian Route You can find the details of the above list and more in my article.

Places to Visit on the Ankara Route

Gordion, located within the borders of Yassıhüyük Village within Polatlı of Ankara, the political capital of Phrygia. Gordion city is 94 km from Ankara and 17 km from Polatlı.

Gordion Ancient City, Gordion Museum and Midas Tumulus the main places you can see in that area.

Where are the Phrygian Valleys and How to Go?

Phrygian Valleys
Phrygian Valleys

Since the Phrygian Valleys are spread over 3 different regions today, you must first decide where to start and which part you want to see. After that, you can decide how to go to the Phrygian Valleys. Since I have visited the Afyonkarahisar region and its surroundings, I will first give information about how to get there, but you will find information for other provinces below.

I mentioned that Phrygia is geographically spread over the provinces of Afyon, Kütahya, Eskişehir and Ankara, while the Phrygian Valleys are located in the Afyon, Kütayha and Eskişehir regions.

Getting to the Phrygian Valley Afyonkarahisar Region

There are multiple points to reach the Phrygian Valleys from Afyon.

Getting to the Phrygian Valley Afyonkarahisar Region
Getting to the Phrygian Valley Afyonkarahisar Region
  • frosty: It is possible to reach this area by minibuses going from Afyon bus station to Ayazini Village.
  • Goynus Valley: You have to go here by private vehicle.
  • İhsaniye: It is possible to reach this area by minibuses going from Ayfon bus station to Döğer Town.

Transportation to the Phrygian Valley Kütahya Region

Located on the provincial border of Kütahya, the Phrygian Valley starts at a distance of 3 km from the center of Kütahya and extends to a distance of 55 km. You can cross the entire line on foot or go to the part you want by private car.

Transportation to the Phrygian Valley Eskisehir Region

Yazilikaya, one of the most important works of Phrygia, is located within the provincial borders of Eskişehir, but is quite far from the center of Eskişehir. You can reach this area by minibus from Eskişehir bus station.

Let me give you good news. In order to facilitate access to Yazılıkaya, Eskişehir Municipality will soon start bus services from Eskişehir center to Yazılıkaya Midas City. You can follow the announcements on the website of Eskişehir Municipality.

Phrygian Path Guide Books and Phrygian Path Mobile Application

If you want to walk the Phrygian Way by yourself, you can walk using a detailed guide book or mobile application.

  • Hussein SarThe Phrygian Way book written by I is a satisfying guide with detailed route explanations and detailed explanation of historical artifacts. In addition, Hüseyin Sarı took an active part in the marking process of the Phrygian Way.
  • Wise Umar's Phrygian book is another alternative book with detailed historical information.
  • In addition, it is prepared for both android and ios phones.Phrygian Way Mobile ApplicationIt provides many materials from places to stay in ”, historical artifacts, routes to maps.

Phrygian Tours

There are large and small companies that organize daily, weekend or longer tours to the Phrygian region. It is worth noting that especially trekking groups or companies engaged in nature tourism prefer this place. One advantage of coming with trekking groups is that if you go to this region more than once with the same group, you will have the chance to walk different routes.

Murat Şen, who was my first guide on the Phrygian Way walk, knows the region well, so if you are planning a trip to Phrygia, you can contact him. Murat Şen, as the Phrygian Road Promotion Volunteer, is dedicated to the promotion of this region, if you want to contact; phone: +90 546 689 34 59

Where to Stay in Phrygia Phrygian Way Accommodation Recommendations

When you come to the Phrygian region, accommodation options vary depending on which route you will see. For this reason, I will give you suggestions based on my own experience.

  • With the contributions of Eskişehir Municipality, Han Municipality and Osmangazi University Tourism Department, they started to provide home boarding services in Yazılı and Büyük Kayıhan villages. In Büyük Kayıhan Village Midas Stone House and in Yazılı Village Phrygian Yazilikaya Pension houses currently in service.
  • As a result of the tourism activities carried out on the Phrygian Road, the village houses on the road have started to serve as pensions and Phrygian Houses in certain places.
  • If you want to walk the Phrygian Way by yourself, it is possible to camp at the villages mentioned in the article on the road and at the points where there is water on the road. There is no security problem, the nature is beautiful, the ground is suitable, why not 🙂
  • We stayed in one of the thermal hotels in Gazlıgöl, saying that we should take advantage of its blessings while we were in Afyon. There are star and star thermal hotels and hostels in this region. Hot thermal water comes out of the ground 🙂 However, you need to choose a private vehicle for transportation to stay in this region.

What to Eat in Phrygia Region?

It is known that the Phrygians have a unique food culture. Unfortunately, you don't have the opportunity to find those dishes today (for now). If you are going to the part of the province in this region, it is possible to find the dishes of that region.

  • In Afyon, sausage, Turkish delight, cream, pastries, especially poppy buns,
  • Tatar dishes in Eskişehir are çibörek, pastries, in Yazılıkaya Hçın, a kind of Circassian pastry,
  • Pastries are also prominent in Kütahya, such as börek and pancakes.

Phrygia offers historical and natural beauties far beyond my expectations. It is also worth remembering that it is suitable for walking even in summer.

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"Does he who reads a lot or travels a lot?" I started by saying, I am still looking for an answer. I travel after my dreams and share my experiences on my blog, newspapers and magazines. I love to travel, read, write and dream.

3 Comments

  1. The phrase "Whatever you hold is gold" is a common saying in Anatolia, it came from Phrygia :)) I want to go to the Phrygian Valley too, but I also want to take pictures at night, both trekking and photography ????????????

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